twill

This is not just the name of a cloth but also the name of a way cloth is woven. Think about denim jeans or chinos: that subtle diagonal line you see in the fabric is the clearest sign. This weave is made by passing the weft thread over and under the warp threads in a staggered pattern, which gives the cloth strength and a distinct look. Compared with a plain weave, it usually feels more textured and often hangs more smoothly. You'll find it in everything from workwear to suits because it can be both strong and good-looking.

If you want to spot this kind of fabric, look for that clear diagonal rib. In textile talk, that raised line is often called a "wale."

Twill refers to a type of weave known for the diagonal ribs or lines that appear on the surface of the cloth. That pattern is not only decorative; it also helps make the fabric strong, flexible, and often more resistant to wear than a plain weave. When people talk about twill, they may mean the weave itself or a fabric made with that weave.

The main difference between twill and other weaves, such as plain weave or satin, is the way the threads cross. In a twill weave, the weft goes over and under the warp threads in an offset pattern, so each row begins a little to the side of the one before it. That shifting pattern creates the familiar diagonal effect. There are several forms of twill, so the exact over-and-under sequence can vary.

You see this weave in many everyday fabrics. Denim is probably the best-known example, but it also appears in chinos, gabardine, drill, workwear, uniforms, jackets, and some suit fabrics. Different kinds exist as well: right-hand twill slopes in one direction, while left-hand twill slopes in the other.

Beyond clothing, fabrics made this way can also be used for bags, upholstery, and other items that need some durability. The weave is valued because it combines strength, a bit of texture, and a smooth drape. So when you look at a pair of jeans or a sturdy coat, part of what gives the material its character is not only the fiber used, but the diagonal weave pattern built into it.